1. Determine whether you can do the work or must hire a contractor:
   1. Read section 23.10.160 on page 2 of the homeowner handout,
   2. Decide if you know enough about electrical work to make a safe installation. Staffing levels dictate the city provide inspectors, not instructors. Time constraints require all permitees be treated equally, whether they're contractors or homeowners. You are responsible as the permitee for knowing the National Electrical Code and provisions of the City Electrical Ordinance which apply to your project, and will sign a verification so stating prior to permit issuance.

2. Read through the rest of this handout, and think through the project: Figure out what is to be done; whether you have time to complete it; how many boxes, fixtures, appliances, etc., there'll be, so you'll know what to take out a permit for. In short, make a plan and follow through with it to completion.

3. Then take out the permit

4. Then do the work.

5. Then call for inspection. The various types of inspection and what they're for are.-

   Rough-in inspection. This term applies to wires and boxes which will be covered by building finish. For instance, a "rough-in" must be approved before fiberglass insulation or drywall is Installed. This inspection is done while the wiring is still visible and must be approved before the wiring's covered.

   Temporary. This inspection is for a construction pole to either overhead or underground, or a power pedestal door used to provide power to build a new house, or feed an existing one where the old service must be shut off to accommodate new construction and the new house service can't yet be installed. It is your responsibility to provide the wires, pole, and proper equipment to pass inspection, not the power company's. Temporary services will not be energized by the power company until they receive an authorization to do so from the inspection office.

   Service. This inspection could be for the repair or upgrade of an existing service, a change in wiring method from overhead to underground, or for the service in a new house. Rewires and repairs must be temporarily re-hooked on the outside of the house, and all new service equipment including the meter socket, panel, ground wires, service entrance wires, etc., must be installed, and pass inspection, prior to the inspection office authorizing its energization by the power company, Final. This inspection is the last to be done. It is to be schedule after all electrical work for a new house is complete and approved prior to occupancy of the house. The final inspection is done after all devices and fixtures have been installed. The term also applies to the last electrical inspection for room additions, basement finishes, and 'fished in' work and should be scheduled when the electrical work is complete.

6. If the equipment you requested inspection for passes, proceed with construction. If it fails, make the necessary changes so it complies with code, pay any reinspection fees required, then schedule another inspection.

   Don't proceed with the next phase of construction until the present installation passes inspection, unless the inspector specifically allows it. This is good. advice! For example, if the rough-in inspection did not pass, and drywall is installed without reinspection,'the inspector can require all the drywall to be removed to allow for inspection of the wiring.

This handout describes some, certainly not all, of the requirements for wiring a single presented to inform homeowner permitees of some of the most prevalent causes of failure to pass inspection, so they can be avoided.

Our common goal is a safe electrical installation. Code requirements, which are a minimum standard, must be complied with to ensure safety. This handout should help you avoid some of the pitfalls you might encounter, help you complete your installation safely, and aid you in passing inspection.

Sections referred to in the handout are articles of the National Electrical Code. Title 23 is the City of Lincoln Electrical Ordinance, which adopts and amends the National Electrical Code. Ordinance books are available from the Department of Building and Safety. The National Electrical Code may be purchased at local bookstores.

This department will review and advise a homeowner concerning their electrical plans. The department will not draw the plans or design the job for the homeowner.

To request an inspection, either fax it, or call the 24-hour inspection line.

Do not call the Electrical Section to request inspections.

Inspections may be scheduled for a specific day, but not a specific time. If you feel you must meet the inspector on the job, provide a phone number at which you can be reached so the inspector can call you 30 minutes ahead of his arrival.

To request an inspection you will need:

• the permit number
• address (including type of street: St., La., Cir.)
• information on how the inspector can gain access [inspection times: 9 AM - 3:30 PM, M-F]

[Read the following Section, Title 23.10.160, for requirements for homeowners and to determine whether or not you're eligible to takeout a homeowner's, permit.]

The issuance of a permit based upon plans and specifications shall not prevent the Building Official from thereafter requiring the correction of errors in said plans and specifications or preventing the initiation or continuance of work thereunder when in violation of this code or any other ordinance.

23.10.160 INSTALLATION By HOMEOWNER.
Citizens may install electrical wiring only in a single family residence which they own and occupy or will occupy as their home. All electrical wiring installed by homeowners shall be for themselves, without compensation or pay from or to any other person for such labor or installation. Such installation by a homeowner shall comply with the requirements of this code, and the homeowner in exercising this privilege shall not constitute or be considered as an electrical contractor. The homeowner shall be required to file plans, demonstrate knowledge of code requirements, apply for and secure a permit, pay the required permit fees, and call for all inspections in the manner provided by this code.

The Department of Building and Safety may deny the issuance of electrical permits to, homeowners under any one of the following circumstances: (a) There is reason to believe the proposed electrical work will be done by someone other than the owner-, (b) There is reason to believe the property is or will be sold on the completion of the electrical work. For the purposes of this subsection (b) there is a rebuttable presumption that the property is or will be sold on the completion of the electrical work if the applicant, within the prior five years, has sold his or her home and the electrical work for said home was performed by the applicant under a homeowner's permit, (c) Previous homeowner electrical permits have not been completed in compliance with this code; (d) The owner is temporarily residing in the home.

If the homeowner is found to have at any time violated or falsified any of the above items, they shall immediately cease all electrical work, forfeit the homeowner's permit, and obtain a registered electrical contractor to complete the electrical work in compliance with the code.

Appointments for required inspections shall not be made with the exception that inspection requests may be scheduled for a given day. The Inspection shall be performed on the day requested by the homeowner. The homeowner, if unable to be present during the normal working hours of a day, shall be required to supply a key or other means of access for the inspection to be performed. Homeowners may be granted one reinspection per permit without reinspection fee charge. Further reinspections will require payment of the reinspection fee provided for in the electrical permit fee schedule.

23.10.170 INSPECTIONS, CONDUCTED By BUILDING OFFICIAL.
The Building Official or an authorized representative is hereby authorized to make such inspections and take such action provided by law as may be necessary to enforce the visions of this code.

"Advisory Note: See the Lincoln Building Code, Section 31 - 0.901.4, regarding requirements for smoke detectors in dwelling units.

23.10.520 PERMIT FEES.
Before a permit to install, alter, or add to electrical equipment shall be issued, a fee for such permit shall be paid to the Building Official as set forth below. Said permit shall be valid for a period of sixty (60) days from the date of issuance, and remain valid as long as work on the project is not abandoned for a period in excess of sixty days. Where work for which a permit is required by this code is started prior to obtaining a permit, the fees hereinafter specified shall be doubled; however, the payment of such double fees shall not relieve any person, firm, or corporation from fully complying with the requirements of this code. There shall be no refunds or credits given on unused permits which have expired. Permit holders returning an unused or partially completed permit prior to the expiration date of the permit shall be limited to a maximum refund amounting to two-thirds of the original fee, for the items not yet inspected, for total refund amounts of $60.00 and less. For permit fee refund totals in excess of $60.00, a $20.00 processing fee will be levied against the refund amount, but the two-thirds maximum shall not apply.

Minimum Permit Fee Charge	$20.00
There is no minimum permit fee for supplemental permits for shortages occurring on the original permit, and for which the work has been inspected.
Service Equipment:
30 ampere thru 400 ampere	$30.00
Service Repair	$21.00
Each Branch or Sub-panel	$10.50
Outlets for lighting, receptacles, switches, and junction boxes (each opening)	$    .40
Lighting fixtures, each	$    .40
Baseboard heaters, each unit	$ 3.00
Ceiling Fans	$ 3.50
Exhaust fans and hoods - Residential	$ 2.50
Pole lights, arc lights, vapor lights, yard lights	$ 4.50
Appliances, or receptacles for same, such as a disposal, dishwasher, dryer, range, furnace, air conditioner, heat pump, unit heater, duct heater, water heater or receptacles for approved cord connected appliances of a like nature	$  4.00
Pool grounding	$42.00
Hot Tub or Spa	$25.00
Hydromassage Bathtub	$15.00
Temporary Wiring such as construction and exhibition	$18.00
Reinspection fee wrong address, work not complete, inaccessibility of equipment and equipment that does not pass inspection	$35.00
For inspection of apparatus for which no other fee is herein provided	$  4.00

RECEPTACLES

Receptacle outlets must be installed in every habitable room of the residence so that no point on any wall is over 6' from. an outlet in the unbroken wall space of that room. In other words, you need an outlet within 6' of a doorway or fireplace, but in the rest of the room the outlets may be 12' apart if there is no break in the wall between them. It is permissible to measure around corners. Any wall space 2' wide or greater requires a receptacle outlet. Receptacle outlets in the ends of permanently installed baseboard heaters may be counted to meet the above requirements. Such receptacle outlets shall not be connected to the heater circuit. An outlet over 5'6" above the floor cannot be counted as an outlet in that space. Outlets in floor boxes within 18 " of the wall my be counted as an outlet in that space. See Section 210-52(a). We recommend liphting and receptacle circuits be run separately.

In receptacle boxes, splice the line (hot) wires together, the neutral wires together, and the equipment ground wires together, each with a 6" 'pigtail' which is to be connected to the receptacle. If you use a metal box, two bare or green equipment ground 'pigtails' will be required, one to ground the box, and one to ground the receptacle. When you are done, there will be only one line, one neutral, and one ground wire connected to the receptacle.

No more than 10 receptacles should be installed on a 15 ampere circuit, and no more than 13 on a 20 ampere circuit for general use. The two (minimum) 20 ampere circuits for small appliances in the kitchen/dining area should supply no more than 4 receptacles each, and can't supply other loads such as lights, exhaust hoods, etc.

You must install a receptacle outlet in any hallway of 10'or more in length. See Section 210-52(h).

You must install a receptacle outlet adjacent to within 36" from the edge of each basin in every bathroom. See Section 210-52(d).

You must install at least one receptacle outlet for laundry facilities. See Section 210-52(f). The laundry receptacle outlets must be fed by a 20 ampere circuit and this circuit shall have no other receptacle outlets or lights. See Section 220-11(c)(2). The laundry outlet must be within 6'of the intended location of the laundry equipment. See Section 210-50(c).

For single family dwellings, at least one outside receptacle outlet accessible at grade level must be installed at the front and back of the dwelling. See Section 210-52(e).

For dwellings you must install a receptacle outlet for the servicing of heating, air conditioning and refrigeration equipment. These receptacles shall be on the same level and within 25'ofthe equipment If on the roof or at grade level, these receptacles must be GFCI protected.

For a single family dwelling, at least one receptacle outlet in addition to any provided for laundry equipment must be installed in each basement and in each attached garage, and detached garage with electric power. See Section 210-52(g).

In kitchens and dining areas, a receptacle outlet must be installed at each counter space 12" or wider. Receptacles shall be installed so no point along the counter wall is over 24" from a receptacle. A counter top broken by a sink or other item leaves a new wall space. Receptacle outlets behind refrigerators, freezers, or other fixed or stationary equipment shall not count as an outlet in that wall space. See Section 210-52(c).

CIRCUITS

Wire sizes given are for copper conductors only. Aluminum conductors smaller than 44 are prohibited by ordinance. Non-metallic sheathed cable may be used in dwellings.

The kitchen counter top area must have receptacle outlets supplied by at least two ampere circuits (12 gauge wire). The receptacle outlets in the dining area must also be fed from a 20 ampere circuit which may extend from the kitchen circuits. The circuits listed in this paragraph shall supply no other receptacle outlets or lights. See Sections 210-52(b), 210-11 (c)(1) & 220-16(a).

If a dishwasher is to be installed, a separate circuit of proper amperage shall be provided for it. A disconnect switch must be installed under the sink for the dishwasher,

If a garbage grinder or compactor, or both, are to be installed, a separate circuit suitable for the load must be installed for them. A disconnect switch must be installed under the sink for the garbage grinder or compactor. Permanently installed appliances can not be cord and plug connected. Install a length of flexible conduit over the romex feed to the unit for mechanical protection of the wires located under the sink. See Sections 210-23 & 210-11(c),

A circuit suitable for the load (40 amperes) is required for a range of 8 3/4 kW or more, either free standing or drop-in type. See 210-19(c). Three insulated 98 wires are required in the cable, plus a 910 separate equipment ground wire. The receptacle must be a 3 pole with ground (i.e. 4 holes) 50 amp device, and the neutral at the range must be unbonded from the frame. The separate equipment ground wire of the range connection cord must be attached to the chassis of the range.

A circuit of 30 amperes is required for an electric clothes dryer. See Section 220-18. Three insulated #IQ wires (plus one #10 ground wire) are required to feed it, and a properly configured receptacle (3 pole with ground rated at 3 0 amps) is required. Make sure the bond strap between the dryer frame and neutral is removed, and the equipment ground wire terminates on the chassis as described for range installations.

Ranges and clothes dryers fed oma sub-panel are also required to have a separate equipment ground wire run to them, with a grounding type receptacle / pigtail employed. In this installation, the factory frame bond must be removed from the neutral terminal of the appliance, and the separate equipment ground shall terminate on the chassis.

These range and dryer requirements are for new construction. For replacements, the existing 3 wire circuit can be re-used. However, any time new wire is run, for instance to extend a range circuit to a new location, the whole circuit, including the receptacle and pigtail for the appliance, must be changed to 4 wire. Remember: If the circuit is 3 wire, make sure the neutral bond strap is installed. If the circuit is 4 wire, make sure the bond is removed.

A circuit suitable for 125% of the nameplate rating is required for a residential electric water heater. See Section 422-13. This is usually a 30 ampere circuit. If not within sight and within 50' of the panel, a disconnect switch is required. The ampere rating of the switch must be at least 125% of the full load current for the water heater.

A separate circuit is required for the furnace. A disconnect switch (a single pole switch for a gas furnace, a safety switch for electrical units) is required as outlined above for water heaters.

GFCI

Ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFC1) protection must be provided for the following 15- & 20ampere, 125 volt receptacles at dwelling units. See Section 210-8.

1. All bathroom receptacles.
2. All garage, storage or accessory building receptacles, except those that are not readily accessible such as outlets for garage door openers, and a single receptacle for one appliance or a duplex receptacle for two appliances occupying dedicated space and which are not easily moved from one place to another, such as refrigerators or freezers.
3. All outdoor receptacles.
4. All the receptacles in crawl spaces at or below finished grade.
5. All the receptacles in unfinished basements except a single receptacle (not a duplex) on a dedicated circuit for an appliance such as a refrigerator, freezer, washing machine or sump pump. For the purpose of this section only, GFCl protection is required unless the floor at the time of a final inspection is covered with carpet, linoleum, or another non-conductive surface.
6. All the receptacles within 6' of a wet bar sink.
7. All receptacles serving kitchen counter tops.
8. All power supplied to hydro massage tubs, hot tubs, and swimming pools. See Article 680 for further information.

Note: To prevent nuisance tripping of the GFCl, it is recommended that these circuits be kept as short as possible and limited to the dedicated outlets.

WIRING

Holes drilled through framing members shall be centered. Where closer than 1 1/4" from either edge, a minimum 1/16" steel nail plate shall be installed to protect the wire. Romex shall be stapled a minimum of every 4 1/4, within 8" of plastic boxes, and within 12" of metal boxes. The sheath of the romex must be a minimum of 1/4" inside the box. A minimum of 6" of free conductor measured from the front of the box must be provided in the box before the required pigtail.

If romex is run above ceiling joists, or below floor joists, and not "drilled through" framing members, it needs to be stapled to the side of running boards a minimum nominal 1" x 2" in size. Romex run down walls in basements where it would be exposed must be installed in conduit from the box up into the joist space. Flexible metal conduit must be used to cover the wire to the disposal (stubbed into the wall), and may (if properly installed--see Article 350) be used to protect the romex to a furnace or water heater (otherwise, use conduit).

A junction box with cover is required wherever there's a splice in a wire. All boxes must be accessible (by removing their cover) without removing building finish; i.e., no hidden junction boxes in walls, ceilings, etc. Pressure connectors are required on all wires spliced or pig-tailed, including the equipment ground wire. Only one wire may be installed under a screw. The number of wires which can safely be installed in a box is described in section 370-16(a). All metal boxes shall be grounded by an approved means such as threaded ground screws, listed grounding clips, etc. Sheet metal screws are not allowed to attach the around wire to metal boxes.

ELECTRIC SERVICE

FIRST, always consult the serving agency (LES or NPPD) for meter location and mounting height. Your liaison with LES is Roger Wohlers, 467-7570; and the number for information at Norris Public Power is 423-3855. Acceptable wiring methods and raceways for service entrance conductors are listed in Title 23.10.335. The service disconnecting means shall be installed at a readily accessible location nearest the point of entrance of the service entrance conductors in or on the house. The service entrance equipment must be bonded as per Article 250-E. The service must be grounded per Article 250-C & 250-D & F and Title 23.10.310, 350, 351, 353, 355. Service panels must be located in accordance with article 384, with dedicated space provided in accordance with Article I 10- 16.

The grounding electrode conductor, sized per Article 250-66, shall be run in one unspliced piece from the neutral bar at the service disconnecting means to the street side of the water meter. The water meter shall be bonded, and bonding jumpers installed around water softeners, filters, etc.

[If water service is from a private well, a minimum of 10' of copper water line in contact with the earth may serve as the grounding electrode. If the well feed to the house is plastic, a ground rod, copper clad, minimum 8'x «" shall be installed as the electrode. The top of the rod and the grounding electrode conductor shall be installed a minimum of I' below final grade at least 3' out from the foundation wall, and left uncovered until after inspection. In all cases, the interior metal water piping shall be bonded to the neutral in the enclosure housing the main disconnect, and at that location, the neutral shall be bonded to the enclosure.]

Metallic conduits housing service entrance conductors shall be adequately bonded to service equipment enclosures (i.e., bonding bushings are required if concentric knock outs are damaged, reducing washers are used, or locknuts don't properly seat on service equipment enclosures). Insulating bushings shall be installed on all metallic conduits housing service entrance conductors.

A one barrel lug (with the paint under it removed) bolted, not screwed to the exterior of the meter socket, exposed metallic service raceway, or a I' length of minimum 96 copper wire, bare or green from the panel neutral bar and run outside with the phone wires shall be provided for the telephone and cable TV system grounding outside the structure.

If a service mast is used to support an overhead service drop, it must comply with Section 230-28. If underground service conductors are used and any part of them are exposed to earth fill, they must be fisted as direct burial conductors type USE. Type UF or USE may be used for feeders or branch circuits.

LIGHTING*NOTE: The 2002 edition of the National Electrical Code replaces the term 'lighting fixture' with 'luminaire', in an effort to harmonize with other international standards.

A wall switched lighting outlet must be installed at each outdoor entrance or exit. A wall switched lighting outlet must be installed in every habitable room, in bathrooms, hallways, stairways, attached garages and detached garages with electric power. In habitable rooms other than kitchens and bathrooms a wall switched receptacle outlet shall be permitted in lieu of a lighting outlet. Where lighting is installed according to the above in interior stairways, there shall be a wall switch at each floor level to control the lighting where the difference in floor levels is six steps or more. See Section 210-70 and the amendment of 23.10.331. 3-wire Romex shall be run in 3-way and 4-way switch circuits.

A lighting outlet shall be installed in each basement, also in any attic, crawl space, or utility room, that contains equipment that could require servicing, or if the space is used for storage. Locate t14 lights at or near the equipment and the switches near the point of entry to the spaces mentioned above. See Section 210-70.

FIRE PREVENTION

Smoke detectors as required by the Building Code need 3 -wire romex between them.

Use 14-3 (three insulated conductors) for the cable from the switch to a ceiling fan (for the ability to switch the fan and present or future light separately), and fasten the fan box with screws--not nails-to a framing member.

Lighting can pose a risk of fire: all recessed lights shall be thermally protected. Recessed lights in direct contact with thermal insulation shall be IC rated. Unless your house is all concrete and steel construction with fire rated suspended ceilings, those inexpensive recessed lights you purchased which are UL listed as "suitable for suspended ceilings only" are unacceptable, and won't pass inspection because they are a fire hazard. See Section 410-65(c). For types of lights allowable in closets, and where they may be located, see Section 410-8.

Incandescent surface light fixtures are not permitted in any clothes closet the requirements of Section 410-8. A flush recessed fixture with a solid lens shall be permitted if it meets the requirements of Section 410-8, 410-75, & 410-66.