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Frequently Asked Questions

If you have a question, please call us at 402-441-7528


1. What version of the National Electrical Code is now in force in Lincoln's jurisdiction?
2. When I see references to numbers such as 23.10.300, or 410.8 as I review this electrical information, what do they mean, and where do I go for further information?
3. Who are the electrical inspectors, what are their qualifications, what areas do they cover, and how do I reach them?
4. How do I request an inspection?
5. What are the qualifications necessary to take the "electrical test"?
6. When are exams given?
7. What is the electrical test like? What's a passing grade? When can I find out if I passed?
8. What should I study to prepare for the electrical exam?
9. What licenses are accepted by the City of Lincoln?
10. Who can take out permits and do electrical work in Lincoln's jurisdiction?
11. When can I, as a homeowner, take out an electrical permit?
12. Am I allowed to do wiring in any building I own, such as a duplex, an apartment house, or my place of business?
13. Where am I required to place receptacles at my residence?
14. For how long is an electrical permit valid?
15. What is the time frame during which I may schedule an inspection?
16. How much will my permit cost?
17. What types and sizes of circuits are generally required in a residence?
18. How do I install my wiring?
19. What do I need to know to install a new electrical service (a new panel)?
20. Where must I install lighting outlets in a residence?
21. For further information on insurance requirements, local National Electrical Code amendments, permit fees, etc., where can I go?
22. Where do I need to install GFCI protection in a residence?
23. Where do I find information about code requirements for smoke detector installations?
24. I want to put up a ceiling fan; what do I need to know?
25. Besides obviously faulty installations, loose connections, etc., what are some of the things I need to be aware of to prevent a fire?


What version of the National Electrical Code is now in force in Lincoln's jurisdiction?

The 2002 NEC was adopted June 7, 2002 by the City of Lincoln with amendments.

When I see references to numbers such as 23.10.300, or 410.8 as I review this electrical information, what do they mean, and where do I go for further information?

All references which begin with the numbers 23.10 are references to the Lincoln Municipal Code, Title 23, which is the City Electrical Ordinance. All other Section numbers such as 210.52, refer to sections of the National Electrical Code. The City Ordinance is on line, and hot linked to the referenced sections. The NEC is copy protected by the National Fire Protection Association, and is not referenced by the InterLinc program. Copies of the NEC may be found at the library, or can be purchased through local book stores.

Who are the electrical inspectors, what are their qualifications, what areas do they cover, and how do I reach them?

All City of Lincoln Electrical inspectors are nationally certified by the International Association of Electrical Inspectors as Electrical Inspectors General, all have worked in the electrical trade in commercial and residential capacities, and all possess a Master Electrician's license. 
Inspectors Quadrant Map

The Electrical Section telephone number is 402-441-7528.

The fax number for the office is 402-441-8214.

How do I request an inspection?

Requests for inspection can't be called to the inspectors. To request an inspection, have the permit number, address, and means of access handy, and then call the 24 hour inspection request line at 402-441-8213. Inspections requested prior to 7:00 am are scheduled for that day, although no specific time can be guaranteed. Infrequently, the volume of inspections for a given day prevents all being completed. If that is the case, the inspection will be scheduled for the next working day. Please provide a phone number at which you may be reached should there be questions regarding access, re-scheduling, etc. Requests for inspection may also be faxed in at 441-8214.

What are the qualifications necessary to take the "electrical test"?

The City administers three types of electrical examinations: Journeyman, Master, and Maintenance Electrician. Each of the licenses allows different degrees of electrical work to be performed by the licensee:

Prior to becoming licensed, most electricians start as apprentices. Reference 23.10.230(d)

A person must be registered as an apprentice for four years, or have exam board approved schooling (which counts at the rate of 1/2 i.e., two years of successfully completed schooling counts as one year of the required experience) for part of the credit, or have other experience acceptable to the board to be allowed to take the Journeyman exam. Four years of approved experience is required in every case to take this exam.

A licensed journeyman is allowed to work for an electrical contractor in the electrical trade unsupervised, and may supervise apprentices at a rate of no more than one journeyman to three apprentices.

A journeyman, after possessing the license for a year is allowed to take either the Maintenance Electrician exam, or the Master's exam.

A Master Electrician can contract, take out permits, work with the tools of the trade, hire and supervise journeymen and apprentices, and offer his craft to the public: Reference 23.10.230(c)

A Maintenance electrician is defined as, and can do work as follows:

Maintenance electrician is hereby defined to be a master electrician, a registered professional engineer, or a graduate electrical engineer of an accredited college or university or a journeyman electrician who has passed the maintenance examination who is regularly and permanently employed by any person, firm, or corporation, and is responsible for the installation, alteration, maintenance, and repair of electrical wiring and equipment on premises owned or occupied by such person, firm, or corporation. Such registration shall designate the premises for which it is issued. The application for such registration shall state the name or names of the master electrician, or registered professional engineer, or graduate electrical engineer or journeyman electrician who has passed a maintenance examination, regularly employed as such on a full-time basis by the applicant on the premises for which the registration is requested.

The person so designated in the application for a maintenance registration shall be a regular full-time employee of the registration holder. No such registration shall be sold, transferred, loaned, or allowed to be used by anyone other than its holder. No such registration shall entitle the holder or any employee of the holder to act under such registration as an electrical contractor, or to perform any of the operations, elec- trical work, or construction permitted under such registration for anyone other than the registration holder. Such registration shall permit its holder to make installations, alterations, repairs, or additions only in buildings existing on the premises designated in such registration at the time of the application therefor. Such installations, alterations, repairs, or additions shall be performed under the supervision of the person designated in such application, and permits for work as described in Sections 23.10.130 and 23.10.140 shall be required.

When are exams given?

The electrical exam is offered by the City on the third Tuesday of February, May, August, and November. Exam applications must be submitted no later than the first Tuesday of the month of the exam, be completely filled out, and be accompanied by the exam fee, which is $50.00 per exam for all classes.

What is the electrical test like? What's a passing grade? When can I find out if I passed?

The electrical exam for all classes is fifty questions, and the test is all open book. The test is made up of code, theory, fire alarm, and general knowledge questions, which differ according to the type test taken. In other words, there are theory questions on the journeyman, master, and maintenance exams, but you can expect the level of difficulty to vary according to the type of exam, etc. There are drawing questions to complete, usually ten. The requirement for waiting six months to re-take the test if it s failed is no longer there, as the test is different each time it is given, so there s no longer the need. There are three hours allotted to take the exam. A passing grade is 75%, and the results of the test are available a week and a day (i.e., the next Wednesday) after the test.

What should I study to prepare for the electrical exam?

The adopted version of the National Electrical Code, the City Ordinance (Title 23), NFPA 72, which deals with Fire Alarms, handbooks on the code, and other published material such as an analysis of code changes, Ferm s Fast Finder, The American Electrician's Handbook, etc.

What licenses are accepted by the City of Lincoln?

Any City of Lincoln license at its degree of licensure, the old State Class A Journeyman, Contractor, and Masters, the new State Contractor and Journeyman licenses, the State Fire Alarm Installer License, and State apprentice registrations. However, all State licenses must be registered with the City, and the appropriate fee must be paid prior to engaging work in the jurisdiction.

Who can take out permits and do electrical work in Lincoln's jurisdiction?

Only licensed, insured Masters and Contractors, Maintenance Electricians in accordance with the ordinance requirements, and home owners (in accordance with the limitations imposed by the ordinance) can take out electrical permits for line voltage installations. Registered fire alarm installers can take permits for the low voltage portion of fire alarm systems only.

When can I, as a homeowner, take out an electrical permit?

Citizens may install electrical wiring only in a single family residence which they own and occupy or will occupy as their home. All electrical wiring installed by homeowners shall be for themselves, without compensation or pay from or to any other person for such labor or installation. Such installation by a homeowner shall comply with the requirements of this code, and the homeowner in exercising this privilege shall not constitute or be considered as an electrical contractor. The homeowner shall be required to file plans, demonstrate knowledge of code requirements, apply for and secure a permit, pay the required permit fees, and call for all inspections in the manner provided by this code.

The Department of Building and Safety may deny the issuance of electrical permits to homeowners if any one of the following items is questionable:

    (a) There is reason to believe the proposed electrical work will be done by someone other than the owner;
    (b) There is reason to believe the property is or will be sold on the completion of the electrical work. For the purposes of this subsection (b) there is a rebuttable presumption that the property is or will be sold on the completion of the electrical work if the applicant, within the prior five years, has sold his or her home and the electrical work for said home was performed by the applicant under a homeowner's permit.
    (c) Previous homeowner electrical permits have not been completed in compliance with this code;
    (d) The owner is temporarily residing in the home.

If the homeowner is found to have at any time violated or falsified any of the above items, they shall immediately cease all electrical work, forfeit the homeowner's permit, and obtain a registered electrical contractor to complete the electrical work in compliance with the code.

Appointments for required inspections shall not be made with the exception that inspection requests may be scheduled for a given day. The inspection shall be performed on the day requested by the homeowner. The homeowner, if unable to be present during the normal working hours of a day, shall be required to supply a key or other means of access for the inspection to be performed. Homeowners may be granted one reinspection per permit without reinspection fee charge. Further reinspections will require payment of the reinspection fee provided for in the electrical permit fee schedule.

Am I allowed to do wiring in any building I own, such as a duplex, an apartment house, or my place of business?

The only place someone other than a registered electrical contractor may do work is in the single family dwelling in which they live. See 23.10.160, .190, & .200

Where am I required to place receptacles at my residence?

These are provisions intended for those people taking out a homeowner permit for a single family dwelling. For other occupancies, reference NEC Article 210.52. In every kitchen, family room, dining room, living room, parlor, library, den, sun room, bedroom, recreation room, or similar room or area of dwelling units, receptacle outlets shall be installed so that no point along the floor line in any wall space is more than 6 ft (1.83 m), measured horizontally, from an outlet in that space, including any wall space 2 ft (610 mm) or more in width and the wall space occupied by fixed panels in exterior walls, but excluding sliding panels in exterior walls. The wall space afforded by fixed room dividers, such as freestanding bar-type counters or railings, shall be included in the 6-ft (1.83-m) measurement.

As used in this section, a "wall space" shall be considered a wall unbroken along the floor line by doorways, fireplaces, and similar openings. Each wall space 2 ft or more (610 mm or more) wide shall be treated individually and separately from other wall spaces within the room. A wall space shall be permitted to include two or more walls of a room (around corners) where unbroken at the floor line.

Please Note: The purpose of this requirement is to minimize the use of cords across doorways, fireplaces, and similar openings.

Receptacle outlets shall, insofar as practicable, be spaced equal distances apart. Receptacle outlets in floors shall not be counted as part of the required number of receptacle outlets unless located within 18 in. (457 mm) of the wall.

The receptacle outlets required by this section shall be in addition to any receptacle that is part of any lighting fixture or appliance, located within cabinets or cupboards, or located over 5 1/2 ft (1.68 m) above the floor.

Exception: Permanently installed electric baseboard heaters equipped with factory-installed receptacle outlets or outlets provided as a separate assembly by the manufacturer shall be permitted as the required outlet or outlets for the wall space utilized by such permanently installed heaters. Such receptacle outlets shall not be connected to the heater circuits.

Please note: Listed baseboard heaters include instructions that may not permit their installation below receptacle outlets.

    (b) Small Appliances.

In the kitchen, pantry, breakfast room, dining room, or similar area of a dwelling unit, the two or more 20-ampere small appliance branch circuits required by Section 210.11(c)1 shall serve all receptacle outlets covered by Sections 210.52(a) and (c) receptacle outlets for refrigeration equipment.

Exception No. 1: In addition to the required receptacles specified by Section 210.52, switched receptacles supplied from a general-purpose branch circuit as defined in Section 210.70(a)1, Exception No. 1 shall be permitted.

Exception No. 2: The receptacle outlet for refrigeration equipment shall be permitted to be supplied from an individual branch circuit rated 15 amperes or greater.

(2) The two or more small appliance branch circuits specified in (b) above shall have no other outlets.

Exception No. 1: A receptacle installed solely for the electrical supply to and support of an electric clock in any of the rooms specified above.

Exception No. 2: Receptacles installed to provide power for supplemental equipment and lighting on gas-fired ranges, ovens, or counter-mounted cooking units.

(3) Receptacles installed in the kitchen to serve countertop surfaces shall be supplied by not less than two small appliance branch circuits, either or both of which shall also be permitted to supply receptacle outlets in the kitchen and other rooms specified in Section 210.52(b)1. Additional small appliance branch circuits shall be permitted to supply receptacle outlets in the kitchen and other rooms specified in Section 210-52(b)1. See NEC 210.8(a)6 for GFCI requirements.

(c) Countertops. In kitchens and dining rooms of dwelling units, receptacle outlets for counter spaces shall be installed in accordance with (1) through (5) below.

(1) Wall counter space. A receptacle outlet shall be installed at each wall counter space 12 in. (305 mm) or wider. Receptacle outlets shall be installed so that no point along the wall line is more than 24 in. (610 mm), measured horizontally from a receptacle outlet in that space. (2) Separate spaces. Countertop spaces separated by range tops, refrigerators, or sinks shall be considered as separate countertop spaces in applying the requirements of (1), (2), and (3) above.

(3) Receptacle outlet location. Receptacle outlets shall be located not more than 18 in. (458 mm) above the countertop. Receptacle outlets shall not be installed in a face-up position in the work surfaces or countertops. Receptacle outlets rendered not readily accessible by appliances fastened in place or appliances occupying dedicated space shall not be considered as these required outlets.

Exception: Where acceptable to the authority having jurisdiction and to meet the special conditions as specified in a or b below, receptacle outlets shall be permitted to be mounted not more than 12 in. (305 mm) below the countertop. Receptacles mounted below the countertop in accordance with this exception shall not be located where the countertop extends more than 6 in. (153 mm) beyond its support base.

    a. Construction for the physically impaired.
    b. Where island or peninsular counter space construction precludes practical mounting above the countertop.
(d) Bathrooms. In dwelling units, at least one wall receptacle outlet shall be installed in bathrooms adjacent to each basin location. Bathroom receptacle outlets shall be supplied by at least one 20-ampere branch circuit. Such circuits shall have no other outlets. See Section 210.8(a)(1).

Exception: A 15-ampere branch circuit may be used to supply outlets for one bathroom. Additional outlets can be placed on the 15-ampere circuit at the discretion of the authority having jurisdiction.

Receptacle outlets shall not be installed in a face-up position in the work surfaces or countertops in a bathroom basin location.

(e) Outdoor Outlets. For a one-family dwelling and each unit of a two-family dwelling that is at grade level, at least one receptacle outlet accessible at grade level and not more than 6 ft, 6 in. (1.98 m) above grade shall be installed at the front and back of the dwelling. See Section 210-52(E).

(f) Laundry Areas. In dwelling units, at least one receptacle outlet shall be installed for the laundry.

Exception No. 1: In a dwelling unit that is an apartment or living area in a multifamily building where laundry facilities are provided on the premises that are available to all building occupants, a laundry receptacle shall not be required.

Exception No. 2: In other than one-family dwellings where laundry facilities are not to be installed or permitted, a laundry receptacle shall not be required.

(g) Basements and Garages. For a one-family dwelling, at least one receptacle outlet, in addition to any provided for laundry equipment, shall be installed in each basement and in each attached garage, and in each detached garage with electric power. See Sections 210.8(a)(2) and (a)(5).

(h) Hallways. In dwelling units, hallways of 10 ft (3.05 m) or more in length shall have at least one receptacle outlet.

As used in this subsection, the hall length shall be considered the length along the centerline of the hall without passing through a doorway.

(i) A receptacle is required to be installed for the servcing of heating and air-conditioning equipment in accordance with the following: This section shall apply to new installations only. A 125-volt, single-phase, 15-or 20-ampere-rated receptacle outlet shall be installed at an accessible location for the servicing of new installations of heating, air-conditioning, and refrigeration equipment. The receptacle shall be located on the same level and within 25 ft. (7.62 m) of the heating, air-conditioning, and refrigeration equipment. The receptacle outlet shall not be connected to the load side of the equipment disconnecting means.

This receptacle, whether located at grade level or on rooftops, shall be ground fault circuit interrupter protected.

For how long is an electrical permit valid?

Reference 23.10.520 Permits are valid initially for a period of sixty days. When an inspection is called for, time is extended for another sixty days. As long as work continues on the project and inspections are progressively called for, the permit remains valid. When a permit has had no inspections called for within sixty days, it is automatically brought up for review in an expired status. It may be extended once for 30 days by permission at that time, or voided if work is not on-going.

What is the time frame during which I may schedule an inspection?

Inspections are conducted from 9:00 am to 3:30 pm, Monday through Friday.

How much will my permit cost?

Permit fees are based on what is installed in accordance with the combined fee and price schedule. Reference 23.10.520

What types and sizes of circuits are generally required in a residence?

Wire sizes given are for copper conductors only. Aluminum conductors smaller than #4 are prohibited by ordinance. Non-metallic sheathed cable may be used in dwellings.

The kitchen counter top area must have receptacle outlets supplied by at least two 20 ampere circuits (12 gauge wire).

The receptacle outlets in the dining area must also be fed from a 20 ampere circuit which may extend from the kitchen circuits. The circuits listed in this paragraph shall supply no other receptacle outlets, and no lights. For further information, see National Electrical Code 02 ed. Sections 210.11(c)1, 210.52(b), & 220.16(a), and (c)1.

If a dishwasher is to be installed, a separate circuit of proper amperage shall be provided for it.

If a garbage grinder or compactor or both are to be installed, a separate circuit suitable for the load must be installed for them. See NEC Section 210.23 and 220.3(b)(1).

A circuit suitable for the load (40 amperes) is required for a range of 8 3/4 kW or more, either free standing or drop-in type. Three insulated #8 wires are presently required in the cable, plus a #10 separate equipment ground wire. The receptacle must be a 3 pole with ground (i.e. 4 holes) 50 amp device, and the neutral at the range must be unbonded from the frame. The separate equipment ground wire of the range connection cord must be attached to the chassis of the range.

A circuit of 30 amperes is required for an electric clothes dryer. Three insulated # 10 wires (plus one #10 ground wire) are required to feed it, and a properly configured receptacle (3 pole with ground rated at 30 amps) is required. Make sure the bond strap between the dryer frame and neutral is removed, and the equipment ground wire terminates on the chassis as described for range installations.

Ranges and dryers fed from a sub-panel are already required to have a separate equipment ground wire run to them, with a grounding type receptacle/pigtail employed. In this installation, the factory frame bond must be removed from the neutral terminal of the appliance, and the separate equipment ground shall terminate on the chassis.

These range and dryer requirements are for new construction. For replacements, the existing 3 wire circuit can be re-used. However, any time new wire is run, for instance to extend a range circuit to a new location, the whole circuit, including the receptacle and pigtail for the appliance, must be changed to 4 wire. Remember: If the circuit is 3 wire, make sure the neutral bond strap is installed. If the circuit is 4 wire, make sure the bond is removed.

A circuit suitable for 125% of the nameplate rating is required for a residential electric water heater. This is usually a 30 ampere circuit. If not within sight and within 50 feet of the panel, a disconnect switch is required. The ampere rating of the switch must be at least 125% of the full load current of the water heater.

A separate circuit is required for the furnace. A disconnect switch (a single pole switch for a gas furnace, a safety switch for electrical units rated at 125% of full load current) is required as outlined for water heaters above.

How do I install my wiring?

Holes drilled through framing members shall be centered. Where closer than 1 1/4" from either edge, a minimum 1/16" thick steel nail plate shall be installed to protect the wire. Romex shall be stapled a minimum of every 4 1/2", within 8" of plastic boxes, and within 12" of metal boxes. The sheath of the romex must be 1/4" inside the box. A minimum of 6" of free conductor must be provided in the box before the required pigtail.

If romex is run above ceiling joists, or below floor joists, and not "drilled through" framing members, it needs to be stapled to the side of running boards a minimum nominal 1"X 2" in size. Romex run down walls in basements where it would be exposed must be installed in conduit from the box up into the joist space. Flexible metal conduit must be used to cover the wire to the disposal (stubbed into the wall), and may (if properly installed-see Article 350) be used to protect the romex to a furnace or water heater (otherwise, use conduit).

A junction box with cover is required wherever there is a splice in a wire. All boxes must be accessible (by removing their cover) without removing building finish; i.e., no hidden junction boxes. Pressure connectors are required on all wires spliced or pigtailed, including the equipment ground wire. Only one wire may be installed under a screw. The number of wires which can safely be installed in a box is described in section 370-16 of the NEC. All metal boxes shall be grounded.

What do I need to know to install a new electrical service (a new panel)?

Always consult the serving agency (LES or NPPD) for meter location and mounting height. Your liaison with LES is Roger Wohlers, 467-7570, and the number at Norris Public Power is 423-3855. Acceptable wiring methods and raceways for service entrance conductors are listed in the City Electrical Ordinance 23.10.335. The service disconnecting means shall be installed at a readily accessible location nearest the point of entrance of the service entrance conductors. The service entrance equipment must be bonded as per Article 250 part V of the NEC. The service must be grounded per Article 250 of the NEC, and Ordinance 23.10.300, .350, .355. Service panels must be located in accordance with Article 384, with dedicated space in accordance with Article 110.16.

The grounding electrode conductor, sized per Article 250.66, shall be run in one unspliced piece from the neutral bar at the service disconnecting means to the street side of the water meter. The water meter shall be bonded. (If water service is from a private well, a minimum of 10 feet of copper water line in contact with the earth may serve as the grounding electrode. If the well feed to the house is plastic, a ground rod, copper clad, minimum 8 feet X 1/2 inch shall be installed as the electrode. The top of the rod and the grounding electrode conductor shall be installed a minimum of 1 foot below final grade at least 3 feet out from the foundation wall, and left uncovered until after inspection. In all cases, the interior metal water piping shall be bonded to the neutral in the enclosure housing the main disconnect and at that location, the neutral shall be bonded to the enclosure.) Metallic conduits housing service entrance conductors shall be adequately bonded to service equipment enclosures (i.e., bonding bushings are required if concentric knock outs are damaged, reducing washers are used, or locknuts don t properly seat on service equipment enclosures). Insulating bushings shall be installed on all metallic conduits housing service entrance conductors.

A one barrel lug (with the paint removed under it) attached to the meter socket, exposed metallic service raceway, or a 1 foot length of minimum # 6 copper wire, bare or green from the panel neutral bar and run outside with the phone wires shall be provided for the telephone and cable TV system grounding outside the structure.

If a service mast is used to support an overhead service drop, it must comply with Section 230.28. If underground service conductors are used and any part of them is exposed to earth fill, they must be listed as direct burial conductors type USE. Type UF or USE may be used for feeders or branch circuits.

Where must I install lighting outlets in a residence?

At least one wall switch-controlled lighting outlet shall be installed in every habitable room; in bathrooms, hallways, stairways, attached garages, and detached garages with electric power; and at the exterior side of outdoor entrances or exits. A vehicle door in a garage shall not be considered as an outdoor entrance or exit.

At least one lighting outlet controlled by a light switch located at the point of entry to the attic, underfloor space, utility room, and basement shall be installed where these spaces are used for storage or contain equipment requiring servicing. The lighting outlet shall be provided at or near the equipment requiring servicing.

Where lighting outlets are installed in interior stairways, there shall be a wall switch at each floor level to control the lighting outlet where the difference between floor levels is six steps or more.

Exception No. 1: In habitable rooms, other than kitchens and bathrooms, one or more receptacles controlled by a wall switch shall be permitted in lieu of lighting outlets.

Exception No. 2: In hallways, stairways, and at outdoor entrances, remote, central, or automatic control of lighting shall be permitted.

Exception No. 3: Lighting outlets shall be permitted to be controlled by occupancy sensors that are (1) in addition to wall switches, or (2) located at a customary wall switch location and equipped with a manual override that will allow the sensor to function as a wall switch.

For further information on insurance requirements, local National Electrical Code amendments, permit fees, etc., where can I go?

Search the Lincoln Electrical Ordinance by subject.

Where do I need to install GFCI protection in a residence?

All 125-volt, single-phase, 15-and 20-ampere receptacles installed in the locations specified in (1) throught (8) shall have ground-fault circuit-interrupter protection for personnel.

(1) Bathrooms.

(2) Garages and also accessory buildings that have a floor located at or below grade level not intended ad habitable rooms and limited to storage areas, work areas and areas of similar use.

Exception No. 1: Receptacles that are not readily accessible.

Exception No. 2: A single receptacle or a duplex receptacle for two appliances located within dedicated space for each appliance that in normal use, is not easily moved from one place to another, and that is cord- and plug-connected in accordance with Section 400.7(A)(6), (A)(7), or (A)(8).

Receptacles installed under exceptions to Section 210.8(A)(5) shall not be considered as meeting the requirements of Section 210.52(G).

(3) Outdoors.

Exception: Receptacles that are not readily accessible and are supplied from a dedicated branch circuit for electric snow-melting or deicing equipment shall be permitted to be installed in accordance with the applicable provisions of Article 426.

(4) Crawl spaces - at or below grade level.

(5) Unfinished basements - for purposes of this section, unfinished basements are defined as portions or areas of the basement not intended as habitable rooms and limited to storage areas, work areas, and the like.

Exception No. 1: Receptacles that are not readily accessible.

Exception No. 2: A single receptacle or a duplex receptacle for two appliances located within dedicated space for each appliance that, in normal use, is not easily moved from one place to another and that is cord- and plug-connected in accordance with Section 400.7(a)(6), (a)(7), or (a)(8).

Exception No. 3: A receptacle supplying only a permanently installed fire alarm or burglar alarm system shall not be required to have ground-fault circuit-interrupter protection.

Receptacles installed under exceptions to Section 210.8(A)(5) shall not be considered as meeting the requirements of Section 210.52(G).

(6) Kitchens - where the receptacles are installed to serve the countertop surfaces.

(7) Wet bar sinks - where the receptacles are installed to serve the countertop surfaces and are located within 6 ft (1.83 m) of the outside edge of the wet bar sink.

(8) Boathouses

GFCI protection is also required for lights in a shower, or directly above a tub, for circuits to spas, hot tubs, and pool equipment.

Where do I find information about code requirements for smoke detector installations?

The requirements for the installation of smoke detectors in single family dwellings are to be found in the Building Code, not the electrical code. Please be advised the wire which runs between the smoke detectors needs to be a three wire romex (use 14-3). This wire provides both power, and alarm signal capabilities, so that if one detector sounds, all sound the alarm.

I want to put up a ceiling fan; what do I need to know?

First, the installation requires a permit. A separate insulated wire needs to be run to be able to switch the fan and light separately. The fan should be grounded. The box which the fan is mounted to must be securely fastened with screws, not nails, to a substantial framing member.

Besides obviously faulty installations, loose connections, etc., what are some of the things I need to be aware of to prevent a fire?

Any time a source of power makes heat, intentionally or otherwise, there is a potential for fire. Lighting can pose a risk of fire: All fluorescent lights installed inside must have a (Class P) thermally protected ballast. All recessed lights shall be thermally protected. Recessed lights in direct contact with thermal insulation shall be IC rated. Unless your house is all concrete and steel construction with fire rated suspended ceilings, those inexpensive recessed lights you purchased which are UL listed as "suitable for suspended ceilings only" are unacceptable, and won t pass inspection. See Section 410-65(c). For types of lights allowable in closets, and where they may be located, see section 410-8. Surface light fixtures are not permitted in any clothes closet unless they meet the requirements of 410-8. A flush recessed fixture with a solid lens is permitted if it meets the requirements of 410-8, 410-66, & 410-68.

Low voltage lighting, now en vogue, can be a serious fire hazard. Follow the manufacturer's instructions, and check temperatures of the lights, wires, and transformers. The National Electrical Code covers these installations in Article 411. All low voltage lighting is required to be third party certified (i.e., UL listed). Insist on it.



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