Turfgrasses

a. Soils:

• Much depends on the type of soil below your lawn and landscape plantings, and it's usually the most overlooked factor in lawns and lawn maintenance. For optimum plant growth, soils should be a balanced clay-loam-silt type. However, most people don't have a choice on lawn soils, and once it's there, you're usually stuck with it. Most soils in Lincoln are a heavy clay or clay-loam. They are not ideal for growing grass or other plants because they tend to compact easily and water infiltration is slow. But understanding how soils work can greatly affect your ability to work with them for the health of your landscape.

b. Lawn grass species:

• In most Lincoln landscapes, the largest amount of water used during the summer is on the lawn. The majority of lawns are cool-season grasses: Kentucky bluegrass, turf-type tall fescue or blends of these with other grasses like perennial ryegrass.
• Kentucky bluegrass is a resilient, sodforming grass that tolerates heavy use, but requires more water than most others to remain green during the hot summer months. A general rule is to water Kentucky bluegrass lawns one to one and one-half inches per week during the growing season. However, to conserve water during periods of drought and watering restrictions, Kentucky bluegrass can be allowed to go dormant. Supplemental irrigation is needed only if sustained drought occurs (more than 3 weeks without rain) to keep the plant crowns alive. Kentucky bluegrass lawns will green up with late summer and fall rains.
• Turf-type tall fescue is a bunch-type wear tolerant grass that has the advantage of drought-tolerance as well as drought resistance. It usually requires little supplemental irrigation during the growing season. Once established, its deep root system can make use of water available at lower soil depths than Kentucky bluegrass. However, unlike Kentucky bluegrass, once the subsoil moisture is depleted, tall fescue cannot go dormant, and plants may die. During extended drought, some supplemental irrigation may be required to keep the plant crowns alive. Because it is not a sod-forming grass, dead spots in the lawn will require over-seeding to fill back in.

c. Cultural Practices:

This publication will not go into lawn pest control or fertilization except to warn against applying excessive nitrogen any time and fertilizing during the summer. For complete guidelines on grass species' disease, insect and weed control and fertility requirements, contact the Lancaster County Extension Educator.

• To promote rooting and stress tolerance, maintain high mowing heights throughout the season. Longer grass shades the soil, keeping it cooler and causing less stress during periods of drought. Also, mow less frequently during periods of drought, and minimize traffic on the grass if possible.
• Higher mowing heights promote deeper rooting. Deeper roots are more resistant to drought. Do not remove more than one-third of the top growth at one time to prevent injury to the grass.
• Heavy soil and high-traffic lawns should be aerated in spring and fall to control thatch, to relieve soil compaction for better water, oxygen and nutrient infiltration and to promote root growth.

d. Watering:

Most lawns in Lincoln are watered too frequently. Lawns, no matter the species or soil type, should not be watered daily or lightly, which encourages shallow rooting. The general rule is to water only as needed to prevent wilting. This requires property owners to be vigilant, plan ahead and allow for changes in weather conditions. Do not turn the automatic irrigation system on in the spring and then forget about it, especially during rainy periods. Become knowledgeable and active in your landscape in order to use water only as needed.

• Irrigating lawns every three days is usually sufficient, and many lawns can be watered once a week without damage. Others will tolerate even longer periods without supplemental irrigation. Always water during the cool part of the day!
• Know the grass species in your lawn and the soil type. Measure the amount of water applied and the depth of infiltration into the soil. Do not water deeper than the root depth, and stop watering if it runs off the lawn. Very heavy clay soils may require you to water, wait, and then water again.
• Many property-owners spend the most time and money maintaining a green lawn. But lawns can be replaced easier than trees, shrubs and perennial beds and should be considered a lower-priority for irrigation.

In this website, we are advocating the use of buffalograss for new lawns. For zoysiagrass or other warm-season grass species, contact the Lancaster County Extension Educator.

Buffalograss Plugs Planting and Establishment

a. Planting

Soil Preparation

Apply Roundup to kill weeds according to label directions.

Spacing and Planting:

Space plugs 12 to 18 inches apart.

Dig a hole for the plug no deeper than the plug.

Plant plugs and lightly roll with lawn roller.

Make sure the plug sides are in direct contact with surrounding soil.

Fertilization:

Fertilize with sod/seed starter according to label directions.

Watering:

Soak thoroughly after planting, and keep area moist for the first two weeks without "run-off."

Slowly reduce watering. After the fourth week, soak area once or twice per week until plugs have covered the area.

Weed control:

Apply a pre-emergent herbicide as recommended by your local nursery.

Mowing:

Mow at a height of two to three inches as frequently as necessary to control weed growth.

b. Care After Establishment

Fertilization and weed control:

Fertilize in spring and late summer with a fertilizer containing slow release and preemergent herbicide. Contact your local garden center or nursery for specific application rates and requirements.

Watering:

Water only in times of extreme drought to keep green. If you choose not to water, the grass will not be harmed.

Mowing:

In early spring, mow to a height of two inches, and remove dormant thatch. Mow at a high setting as needed.

Buffalograss Turf Seed Planting and Establishment

a. Planting

Soil preparation:

Apply Roundup to kill weeds according to label directions.

Roto-till four to six inches deep after five days.

Seeding:

Seed in late spring or early summer.

Apply three to four pounds of seed per 1,000 square feet.

Broadcast or drill seed one-fourth inch deep, and rake soil lightly if broadcast.

Pack the area with a roller to maintain soil contact with seed.

Watering:

Soil should be kept moist not wet.

Irrigate every other day, and continue this 14 days following germination.

Reduce watering to twice per week, and gradually reduce watering as sod develops.

Mowing and Weed Control:

Mow just above the height of the buffalo grass, and do not apply herbicides.

b. Care After Establishment

Care after establishment is the same as the plugged Buffalo grass